oli

Black Forest Industries? No thanks.

Do you have a strut mount bar too?

Quote, originally posted by Moljinar »

I try to never drive the cabby any farther from home than I want to walk back.

anyone in socal have a garage and tools and want to spend a weekend day making a couple of these? i figger we can run to lowes for pipes and paint, run to 7-11 for beer/redbull, and run back to their house for man time.

anyone? PM me. im in the valley.

FS: MK1 Bolt-thru Vent Windows and HVAC Stuff

WTB: Cheap Corrado dash and stuff.

Nice work!

A lot Cheaper than the anything bought at the store. I see these places charging upwards of a 100 bucks for a piece of tube.

Forget that!

Quote, originally posted by drtbmxer »

very true.....granted these peices being sold by places usually have welded ends on there, but im willing to bet this works equally as well. as for the structural integrity of this, it is really pretty damn tuff, it took some serious smashing to get the ends flat and there was no way it was bending without heat, id put this up against any purchased bar for the application it's being used in. i took some measurements too actually so i could check it in a few weeks to see if it bent or changed in dimensions at all, but im really willing to bet it wont. again i could really feel the difference with and without this thing on there, so it must be at least fairly strong enough

I totally agree, you woudn't notice a difference with a more expensive bar. You may be able to get measurements from machines and such, but bar for bar, I put that up to the test. Even if it is 80 or 90 % of a bar sold and some joint, 80% of an expensive more than makes up the for the cost difference.

Some people though just like the name and pretty factor.

Quote, originally posted by drtbmxer »

very true.....granted these peices being sold by places usually have welded ends on there, but im willing to bet this works equally as well. as for the structural integrity of this, it is really pretty damn tuff, it took some serious smashing to get the ends flat and there was no way it was bending without heat, id put this up against any purchased bar for the application it's being used in. i took some measurements too actually so i could check it in a few weeks to see if it bent or changed in dimensions at all, but im really willing to bet it wont. again i could really feel the difference with and without this thing on there, so it must be at least fairly strong enough

werd and in the end anything is better than nothing. I've made these from just a piece of angle iron before

Quote, originally posted by Muffler Bearing »

that would require him to figure **** out on his own. everyone knows its much better and far easier to just post a new thread when you have any question at all before you even begin to try about thinking on your own.

Quote, originally posted by GoKraut »

yeah thats cool and all but the first speed bump that strikes you just fractured your conduit.

If you lowered your car way too much and drive like a moron, yes.

Black Forest Industries? No thanks.

(I have a oxy-acetalyne torch converted to oxy-propane) a fullsize torch with propane alone will get hot enough for this.

I plan on making one soon too, Why people pay $100+ for some of these is silly to me. I won't be using conduit though, isn't that stuff galvanized? I always felt like the conduit sidewall was too thin too.

Quote, originally posted by GoKraut »

yeah thats cool and all but the first speed bump that strikes you just fractured your conduit.

umm if i were to hit this thing on a speed bump then this thing denting would be the least of my worries as it sits HIGHER than my oil pan. Also it would have to be some sort of speed bump that my wheels wouldnt be going over as the bar sits virtually between the two front wheels, which would mean it would need to be dragging on the ground as i drove. A manhole cover or a big bubble in the road might get it, but A. I'm no where near low enough yet for me to worry about that too much, B. I've driven lowered cars long enough to know straddling any kind of protrusion in the road is the worst thing you can do, C as i stated, my oil pan would hit long before this bar

You might not really see a change as your peice is only so long and already has a slight bend.

Modified by 20th#0000 at 10:32 AM 5-17-2009

but in such a small piece im sure it will do fine. good job on the DIY, i like to see stuff like this. now go make a rear bar out of pipe and muffler clamps!

http://www.autokrieg.com

My Life
http://www.birmphoto.com

i dont think ill be doing that

Modified by drtbmxer at 2:53 PM 5-17-2009

true... then how about a rear bumper. (not conduit)

http://www.autokrieg.com

My Life
http://www.birmphoto.com

http://www.autokrieg.com

My Life
http://www.birmphoto.com

oh and theres a diy on here with measurements

*lol* The science involved. Wow.

Well good luck to you, sir.

Now that I've seen this I'm planning on doing it. As cheap as conduit is who cares if you split one? I may even get crazy and make two! $7.94!! Take that TT!!